And with values increasing if you buy well then they can also be a sound investment. But be aware there are a lot out there masquerading as good waiting to hit unexpecting buyers in the pocket. Here’s a quick guide that should at the least make you more informed when knowing what to look for.
Bodywork
We believe the condition of the bodywork is the single most important area to focus on when buying a T25. It’s an area that is often overlooked as chassis’s are strong and so long MOT’s can be found on vans that have serious bodywork rust issues. It’s true that most repair panels are available and are relatively cheap, although the cost of getting them fitted and finished to a professional standard can run into £000’s. The temptation might be there to buy a rough one and have the work done, but be aware as if done badly the rot will be twice as bad by the time it shows again.
Even the earliest T25 is now 20 years old and so most will have had some remedial body and paint work carried out. It’s the quality of work that’s important. Pay particular attention to all seams as they often get filled over by cheap repair jobs which not only damages the vans value but could be hiding something underneath. Look at the quality of paint finish and colour match also and try to get a handle on how long ago the van was painted. It’s almost impossible to eradicate all traces of rust although if only painted three months ago and it’s bubbling underneath already, then the chances are there’s more to come through.
While the main chassis is strong, get on your hands and knee’s and check all four jacking points, these can rot out from inside and are tricky to fix properly. Another common area for rot is the seam that runs along the bottom o/s panel of the van (n/s on LHD models) as these suffer from moisture created by the fridge and ingress through the vent and are expensive to put right as the interior has to be removed to affect a proper repair.
The front valance behind the bumper, the bottom of windscreens and around all the side windows should also be checked for signs of rust. As should the steps and roof gutters. Common sense must prevail and a small amount of manageable surface rust is fine for all but the most expensive of vans.
Mechanicals
Most parts are available new or reconditioned at very reasonable prices. As expected engines are the single most expensive item at circa £1200, with the most common cause for replacement being head gasket failure. Due to their design the cylinder head bolts are weakened overtime through incorrect antifreeze levels and more than often snap causing the gasket to fail or break when actually changing a defective gasket. When this happens there is no option but to undertake an engine rebuild which can cost as much if not more than a replacement engine. It’s therefore not uncommon to see vans with replacement engines, which are generally very good quality.
Head gasket aside, engines are pretty tough and do last well if looked after. Most engines loose some oil and water and unless excessive don’t worry. They should be quiet yet with the distinctive VW flat four hum, but no knocks or rattles. If not started for a while it’s not uncommon for the hydraulic tappets to drain their oil leading to a knocking sound, although unless you are confident this is the source of the noise walk away. Those with automatic chokes will run at high revs and a bit lumpy at first with some smoke although should clear when hot.
Exhausts can be fairly pricy as are gearboxes, although the later are also pretty tough with the main check being that they don’t jump out of gear and that if they do snatch when cold this goes when warm. All consumable items such as shock absorbers, clutches and brake parts are pretty cheap and so shouldn’t cause an need for concern.
Interiors
While there are some very good aftermarket interiors available, home built campers can very widely in quality. Professional conversions therefore generally offer a higher build quality with the best known of the UK players are Autosleepers, Autohomes and Holdsworth. Although time consuming, make sure everything works as fridges and heaters can be very expensive to replace if faulty. If possible establish if the gas fittings carry a current Gas Safety check.
Some conversions seem to suffer more than others in terms of wear and tear, although items such as carpets and cupboards needed be expensive to repair as long as they are not too badly damaged.
Perhaps the biggest cost associated with interiors is reupholstering which can be expensive, although also an opportunity for you to personalise a camper to make it your own.
Paperwork
As with buying any vehicle, a good service history is usually a good indicator as to a vans condition. A quick sift through the associated paperwork should hint towards regular oil and coolant changes and if any major mechanical work has been done, such as a replacement engine.
Contrary to popular believe, mileage is not always an indicator of condition. T25’s like all things mechanical don’t like to be stood unused and so vans that have covered less than 50k could be worse than ones that have covered three times that.
It’s better to gauge each van on it’s own merits such as the condition of it’s bodywork, interior and mechanicals than to base decision on mileage alone. That said a good quality low mileage camper in good condition would command a premium.
Sound like a lot to take in…it’s just the tip of the iceberg. That’s why our T25 VW campers for sale benefit from our years of experience of knowing what to look for.